Archive for September, 2009
WHEN YOU’RE A BOY – Men’s fashion styled by Simon Foxton
I totally forgot to post this. I went to see this exhibition over 2 months ago, it’s pretty good.
Simon Foxton is a menswear stylist and he is amazing, he styled one of my favourite series ever - Strictly by Jason Evans which was featured in i-D Magazine in 1991. (See image above) He works with a lot of black male models and his style has a sort of street vibe to it whilst still maintaining elegance.
I guess it comes from rude boy style of the 90s. They always had a really smart appearance, decked out in Moschino and Iceberg, head to toe labels. But I guess rude boys have always dressed to impress and look sharp. It just evolved. You don’t see it as much today as I think black American style has infiltrated street style in the UK. But they’re always well presented nevertheless.
It finishes soon, the 4th of October to be exact, so go down to the new Photographer’s gallery and see it now!
Also whilst you’re in the area you should go and see the Moonmilk exhibition by Ryan McGinley at the Alison Jacques Gallery. It’s good.
In my last post I talked about how PPQ had used all black models, which was commendable but I am now beginning to see it for what it is, an attention seeking novelty. The use of black models to get press attention. And I can’t see it happening again in the near future as no other designer is going to want to “copy-cat”.
Anyway today I met up with a friend and we were discussing fashion week, a mutual friend is helping out a london designer who showed at fashion week. This designer had requested that models had to be “a bit anorexic looking”, a size 4 to be precise and that black models were apparently alienating to fashion audiences. Alienating to who exactly? The BNP?
It disgusts me that in this day and age the fashion industry is so backwards when it comes to race. I don’t see how black models are going to alienate anyone. Our nation has a rich cultural mix and London is the center of that. We should be taking advantage of this cultural diversity, not dismissing it.
Fashion week has never been a representation of the people, it’s elitist, but I never thought of it as being so fundamentally racist. I knew that it was harder for black models, and indeed mixed race models to get a break. Perhaps because despite being the right dress size, women of black descent are naturally curvier and designers don’t make catwalk clothes to cater for that.
There are of course, some designers who have always used black models on their catwalks, Vivienne Westwood being one of them, but I am finding it hard to add to that list.
The fashion industry needs to change. It’s up to the model agencies, the bookers, the casting agents, the designers, the fashion press to ensure that this racism stops. But I don’t see it happening anytime soon when even young designers, showing at fashion week for the first time are too afraid / too ignorant to give anyone who isn’t a caucasian stick insect a chance.
I was trying to avoid LFW this season as the whole thing kind of bores me but I had to acknowledge this…
PPQ Uses all black models for their RTW Spring/Summer 10 show.
Never one to shy away from using unconventional models (hasn’t necessarily been the best idea from them in previous years… see Peaches Geldof’s cringey walk in 2008 ) PPQ has been brave in using an all black model cast and has received positive feedback from the fashion critics. The collection is enjoyable too. I like those tropical prints on 50s style dresses, the whole collection is very chic. I particularly love the pink all-in-one. Oh and they have such a cute website, I love the cat face design…
See backstage here…
Also Wah Nails did the nails for the show…
I had my nails done at Wah the other week, I’m on the blog to and my friend Niki’s lovely illustrations are adorning the walls, (I am the subject of one of these illustrations.)
Check them out.